When business casual becomes business casualty

Jean Woo
Published in Lawyers Weekly 2006

Once upon a time, lawyers faithfully observed the first commandment of professional dress: thou shalt wear sombre suits with white shirts and conservative ties. Fast forward to 2006, and a glance around most legal workplaces confirms that this commandment is no longer in force. The traditional male business suit and its stockinged and skirted female counterpart, make sporadic appearances at best.

Relaxed dress codes distress a few, delight some and baffle many. Opponents believe that business casual is a drop in professionalism. Ardent supporters are most often employees who choose to wear clothing they believe is more comfortable, more approachable and less costly than traditional suits. By far, the largest proportion has mixed feelings, with uncertainty rarely absent from the mix. I hear complaints about the need to compile a ‘third wardrobe’, being ‘caught out’ and not knowing what is too casual or too formal. Many firms who adopted casual Fridays ended the week unpleasantly surprised!

Much of the difficulty lies in the word casual. A very general term, it contains at least four sub-categories. If you imagine a formality scale which stretches from thongs and stubbies up to black tie and ball gown, ‘casual’ covers a large section of this spectrum. Dressing too far down the casual end of the scale, makes a business casualty of business casual. Various firms have resorted to terms such as ‘informal businesswear’ or ‘contemporary businesswear’ in an effort to highlight the business aspect.

What we really need is an outcome-oriented definition of business casual: a relaxed version of classic business wear with no loss of professional credibility. So what then constitutes business casual as defined?

Let’s start by considering what it isn’t. It is not active casual eg sporting gear, gym wear, or outdoor wear. These are not acceptable if the sparring you do is in the boardroom or courtroom; or the peaks you scale are those of your practice or career. It means saving the trackies, joggers or hiking boots for the physical activity for which they’re designed. Overlapping this category is weekend casual. If you wear it to a barbeque, on the beach or in the room you’re painting, it’s far too informal for business. This rules out cargo pants, faded denim and t-shirts without jackets.

This leaves smart casual and finally business casual. Like the former two, these categories overlap. The distinction lies in the point from which they relax back. Smart casual is a relaxed version of what you would wear to a formal social function. Business casual is a relaxed version of formal business wear eg the suit and tie. Examples of dress that’s smart casual and not business casual include for women, dressy garments which are sheer or revealing and for men, shirts in bold prints. These garments suggest social activity, not legal practice or law-related endeavours.

Given that business casual has much narrower parameters than any other casual category, what are the most important considerations?

1.  Aim for consistency.

Business casual must still be recognisable as business wear. Whether business casual in your workplace is on specific days or at your discretion, Monday’s outfit should not differ radically from Friday’s.

2.  Don’t ditch the jacket.

If in doubt, wear or keep one handy. The tailored jacket is a hallmark of seniority, especially for women. Ninety three percent of observers conclude that a jacket-wearing woman is more senior than her non jacket-wearing colleague. Men, remember that a well tailored jacket does wonders for postural challenges and expanded girths.

3.  Fit to flatter.

Ill-fitting garments are a distraction. They beg the question: if the clothing doesn’t fit, what else doesn’t? Beware protesting zips, migrating buttons and creeping hems. The response you’ll get to clothing that’s too tight, too loose, too long or too short will be at best, uncharitable.

4.  Manage your exposure.

This is relevant for women. The more flesh you expose, the more vulnerable you appear. Relaxed dress codes have tempted some to expose upper arms, shoulders, cleavage and even midriffs. Women, do not denude yourselves of authority, especially in the presence of men. Even on the most casual of business days few men would wear a sleeveless t-shirt to work.

5.  Attend to detail.

Business casual does not mean a casual approach to maintenance, of your clothes or you. If anything, relaxing the style places greater demands on the condition. Keep your clothing in good repair, clean and wrinkle free. Grooming that indicates no conscious intervention, suggests a lack of care. Don’t be surprised if your audience infers that the amount of care you give others is the same as you give yourself.

6.  Be discerning with denim.

Dark denim is more business-like than light. Where jeans are obligatory (be sure of this) avoid any effects intended to create a worn-in look eg frayed, faded or torn . Keep a tailored jacket handy. (See second point.)

7.  Put footwear in context.

Choose simple, appropriate footwear. If you don’t engage physically in farming, building or athletics at work, leave the heavy ‘tractor tread’ soles, steel capped boots and sports shoes to their respective sites. On the other hand, coverage counts. Bare toes and thong-like sandals were high on the gripes list of several hundred employers surveyed in a recent study on workplace dress. Men who go sockless had better be artists or the subject of a fashion shoot.

8.  Always remember your audience.

Whether you wear the most conservative or the most relaxed version of business attire, your dress must support, not sabotage, your professional outcomes. There are always three questions to ask: What is appropriate for my audience? What is appropriate for the situation? And finally, if my dress could speak, what would it say? Disappointing your audience’s expectations can come at a price. Know what it is before you pay.

© Jean Woo 2006

Jean Woo jean@personalbrand.com.au is Director of Personal Brand Management and has advised organisations and individuals on image and personal branding for over 13 years. She wrote the corporate image book Executive Style and is currently co-writing Dress for Effect. Originally a lawyer, Jean now consults, writes and speaks on all aspects of people packaging.